cocovan Providenciales, Turks & Caicos IslandsRestaurant Reviewed Summer 2017

cocovan’s airstream lounge, fast casual dining under the palm trees

By Mandy Rostance-Wolf

Leave it to the dynamic duo of Stuart Gray and Steven Murray of Coco Bistro fame, to create Providenciales’ newest culinary sensation, cocovan. The inspiration behind this original and ingenious concept evolved and developed from their fascination with the food truck phenomenon. An exploding and monumental trend in the food industry, its success and appeal lies in its simplicity. It’s a casual, spontaneous, affordable and fun alternative to sit-down, conventional restaurants. And here on this island of perpetual summer, what’s not to love about the concept?

Our host for the evening, General Manager and co-owner Steven Murray, explained how the concept came about. “We [together with Stuart Gray, Executive Chef and co-owner] knew we wanted to do another restaurant, but we didn’t want to do something the same as Coco Bistro. We wanted to do something more casual. We didn’t want to try to compete with ourselves, or with what we were doing next door. Food trucks are so popular in the U.S. and Canada now, so that’s what we wanted to do. We wanted something iconic … so it’s a 1974 Airstream.”

Stuart’s wife, Jo, is the mastermind behind the genius name. Steven explained they had been toying with names, and had a few frontrunners, but really didn’t like any of them. Then one day he received a text message from Stuart. “Jo said, what about cocovan?” “Yeah, that’s it!” Steven laughed.

Tuna Tartare at cocovan’s airstream lounge

Purchased and refurbished in Ohio, the 27-foot Airstream’s renovation involved cutting serving hatches, a huge roof vent, and reinforcing the floors to accommodate the heavy kitchen equipment. Then cocovan was driven to Miami where they custom-fitted the kitchen and finally, shipped here.

The sight of the sleek iconic Airstream is quite an eye-catching spectacle in itself. This American-made brand of high-end luxury trailers are easily recognised by their distinctive rounded silhouette and gleaming silver colour. The year was 1974. Everybody was doing a brand new dance called The Locomotion, Blazing Saddles had everyone in stitches in theatres, the Rubix cube was stupefying the world, and this particular Airstream rolled off the assembly line in Ohio. No one could have dreamed its final destination would be the Turks and Caicos Islands.

Fried Shrimp Mac n Cheese Balls become Lobster Balls in season

There’s plenty of seating surrounding cocovan in the beautifully lush, landscaped setting. Spread out and spacious, you’d never guess they can seat 70. “We knew we wanted people to stay here and enjoy the environment. We wanted to create a nice seating area with the same kind of ambiance as next door, but obviously more casual with the picnic tables, no reservations needed, and it’s more affordable. Everything on the menu is 16 bucks and under,” Steven acknowledged.

A self-service concept, you place your order at the Airstream, get a number, pay, return to your table and your food is brought to you. While you wait, enjoy watching the live action in the ‘kitchen,’ sip a cool beverage and nibble on a basket of Sriracha Lime Popcorn, it’s outrageously tasty and totally addictive.

Drinks from the bar (also self-service) include beer, wine, cocktails and a Tequila Well. In keeping with the concept, drink prices are also reasonable, and as Steven joked, “You can never have too many umbrellas in your drink.” Tonight’s Special Cocktail offerings were Rasta Rum Punch, a Jamaican style rum punch layered with Myers Rum and Blue Curacao, and Lime in the Coconut, a refreshing umbrella drink made with lime juice, coconut puree and local coconut rum.

Enjoy Gorgonzola fries or Poutine in a coconut grove

The rooster theme is yet another genius idea – the staff livery even includes French berets. Tables are decked out with lanterns, a roll of paper towels (you’re gonna need ‘em) and a large squeeze bottle of Sriracha Sauce.

The contemporary and trendy menu offerings are created by Executive Chef Stuart Gray and rotate about once a month. The vibe may be casual, but this cuisine is elevated, sophisticated offerings you’d expect to find in a major metropolitan city.

It’s a small-plate sharing concept much like tapas, beginning with Asian Crispy Rice with Spicy Tuna Tartare. This dish was elevated in more ways than one. Two incredibly crunchy rice cakes were the flavourful foundation for mounds of soft and tender tuna tartare. A generous drizzle of Spicy Aioli is the piece de résistance of this outstanding dish.

cocovan’s top notch Open-Faced Lamb Flatbread Sliders

Classic Poutine (pron. pou-tin) is the ultimate decadence. Originating in Quebec, Canada, crispy French fries are buried beneath melted cheese curds and savoury gravy, creating a ridiculously rich and gooey dish of deliciousness.

I considered the Gorgonzola Fries with aged Port Syrup to be an avant-garde and cutting-edge version of Poutine. These French fries were smothered with melted morsels of gorgonzola cheese and drizzled with a luxurious and extravagant aged port syrup. Undeniably love at first bite for me, Steven admitted, “At the start, the Gorgonzola fries were a really slow burner, and now we get people coming here just for that.”

cocovan’s fabulous Sweet Chili and Sesame Beef Tacos

There is no denying the taco has experienced quite a renaissance and cocovan serves up three terrific pairs of tacos. First up, and the current best seller, Sweet Chili and Sesame Beef Tacos. Tender slices of beef in a nice and sticky sweet chili sauce. This was a great combination of textures with crisp and crunchy slices of cucumber, radishes and cilantro.

The Peking Duck Tacos were bursting with plenty of shredded duck in a pungent, sweet and salty hoisin sauce, and topped with crunchy cucumber and green onions.

And, Blackened Shrimp Tacos with coconut hummus, mango slaw and piña de gallo. This hummus had a flavourful twist and featured toasted coconut and coconut milk. The piña de gallo was a pineapple salsa – fresh and fruity with a kick of cilantro.

The Fried Shrimp Mac & Cheese Balls were out-of-this-world, absolutely crispy on the outside with a savoury filling of butter-poached shrimp. The Mac & Cheese was made with a béchamel sauce, and scented with truffle oil. Served with a delish dip of Sriracha Mayo this was a scrumptious creation. What’s more? In season, it’s made with lobster.

The Open-Faced Lamb Flatbread Slider was the unanimous favourite tonight. And we don’t often agree unanimously. About 15 spices go into these incredibly spiced lamb patties, served on flatbread and topped with a fabulous spicy yoghurt sauce, refreshing fresh mint, pickled cucumber and onions.

Casual dining under the palm trees at cocovan, enjoy dessert of Churros

We barely had room for Churros. I think Steven nailed it when he said, “When you do one dessert, you know it’s good.” And he was so right. Fantastic, deep-fried fritters coated in cinnamon sugar were served with a dark chocolate dipping sauce and vanilla ice cream.

Opening at 5:00pm has made this a favourite for families. The Kids Menu features a Cheese Quesadilla and Fries or Hot Dog and Fries. It has become a popular late-night venue, and take-out is available. cocovan serves food until 10:00pm seven days a week and until 11:00pm on Friday and Saturday nights.

Steven admits the response has been really good. “This is a completely different concept. We’ll get people come there [Coco Bistro] and then they’ll come here [cocovan] for a more casual evening.”

And he’s not kidding. In fact, we were compelled to return to the scene of the crime the very next night. We teased about coming back for quality control purposes, but Steven knew why we were back. Smitten like everyone else who experiences the simplicity, flavour and cool vibe of cocovan.

Care was taken to ensure correctness of information at press time. Information is subject to change without notice. Ad Vantage Ltd. accepts no responsibility for such alterations or for typographical errors or omissions. Entire contents of this page may not be reproduced in any manner without written permission of Ad Vantage Ltd. © Summer 2017 Where When How - Turks & Caicos Islands.

The Vix Bar & Grill Providenciales (Provo), Turks & Caicos IslandsReviewed March / April 2016THE VIX BAR AND RESTAURANT HAS CLOSED

In the Heart of Grace Bay enjoy al fresco dining at The Vix Bar & Grill

By Mandy Rostance-Wolf

If you think you know The Vix … think again. Under new management, a lot has changed at this popular and trendy Grace Bay eatery.

General Manager, Ajay Vyas was our accomplished and attentive host this evening, and together with Chef de Cuisine Eion ‘Tiny’ Laird, they were both eager and enthusiastic to present, and flaunt, the ‘new’ Vix.

The venue is welcoming and familiar … an elegant sidewalk café ambiance. The architecture is evocative of the Mediterranean, with beautifully crafted stonework and captivating fountains.

Ajay began with the new menu. He emphasised the importance of featuring island influences in the dishes and preparing everything from scratch. “The menu – it’s not a complex menu, it’s accessible. People can easily find something they like,” he explained.

The Vix Bar & Grill's Grilled Eggplant with Ricotta Salad

He was also keen to promote their wine list. Rather than burden his guests with binders burgeoning with vintages, he invites his diners to enjoy their thoughtfully chosen and very reasonable wine list. This petite portfolio has no bottle of wine over $50 and several wines by the glass, also at an appealing price point. “I would rather have people enjoying wine – without thinking about it,” Ajay maintains.

Ajay proceeded to take our table on a veritable culinary tasting tour of the new menu, experiencing an abundance of dishes, perfectly paired with wines by the glass.

A popular, stand-out signature dish with eye-catching presentation, the Grilled Eggplant Salad was an engaging composition of rich and creamy ricotta cheese, a robust and flavourful balsamic drizzle and a sprinkling of balsamic pearls. Thanks to science, a.k.a. molecular gastronomy, these tiny, caviar-like beads of balsamic ‘pearls’ delightfully burst on your tongue.

Beet and Goat Cheese Salad at The Vix Bar & Grill

An appetising Beet and Goat Cheese Salad had a wonderful, textural dimension, complements of the toasted pine nuts. Ajay explained that the beets are poached and steeped in apple juice to give them a sweeter flavour. Beets and goat cheese are a classic pairing, as was Ajay’s choice of the 2014 Santa Margarita Pinot Grigio, crisp, with bright acidity.

A ‘cup’ of Island Spiced Pumpkin Soup was incredibly thick and full of flavour. Served with a crispy Cheese Brittle stick on the side, this “warm and comforting” soup was unanimously celebrated for the palatable heat and the intense use of spice. It’s Tiny’s recipe that features cinnamon and Jamaican yellow curry powder. A glass of Danzante Prosecco was a delicately sweet and sophisticated coupling.

Next, a duo of pasta dishes – or perhaps ‘duelling pastas’ is more appropriate! You be the judge. First, Mushroom Ravioli with sage brown butter sauce. This fabulously creamy sauce, with concentrated brown butter flavours and a hint of lemon, clung to every surface of the ravioli pockets. Each savoury pasta pouch was bursting with an earthy, rich mushroom filling.

The Vix Bar & Grill's Spiced Pumpkin Soup is a local favourite

The Rasta Pasta features wonderful morsels of Tiny’s jerk chicken and spaghetti noodles tossed and smothered in a shockingly creamy and pleasurably spicy Jerk Sauce. Showcasing our own famous local hottie, scotch bonnet peppers, this bold and brazen dish was an out-and-out show and conversation stopper. A 2013 Louis Jadot Chardonnay, lively with refreshing acidity complemented the very rich sauce bases in both dishes.

Next, we took pleasure in a veritable trinity of fabulous fish courses and an unexpected surprise – an impressive and rather magnificent lamb shank. A 2013 Meomi Pinot Noir, one of Ajay’s favourites, and one of ours. A full-bodied wine with soft tannins, Meomi is always a crowd pleaser and an exceptionally food-friendly wine.

First up – a fantastic filet of Wild Canadian Salmon with a Tamarind Glaze on a sensational bacon and potato hash. The glaze is made from fresh tamarind soaked in jaggery. Pron. jag-uh-reey, an unrefined brown sugar made from Palm sap. It is popular in Indian culinary practices, and a healthy alternative to white sugar. Soaked overnight, strained and finished with seasonings, this intensely flavoured glaze was reminiscent of a tamarind reduction. Perfectly sweet and undeniably luscious.

Full of flavour The Vix Bar & Grill's Jerk Chicken Rasta Pasta

The Grilled Snapper was served with a savoury Island Salsa and crispy potatoes. Very fresh and tropical, with a hint of cilantro.

And finally, a filet of Blackened Grouper on a lovely pool of orange beurre-blanc. Light and bursting with bright citrus flavour, this butter sauce perfectly balanced the mellow heat of the blackened spice.

We all agreed that it is quite a culinary feat to put three different fish courses on the same plate and achieve triple success. “I love them all for their individuality,” my husband applauded. “Wait until you hit the lamb shank!” Ajay chuckled.

The lamb shank made quite an entrance, presented vertically, the table was momentarily spellbound. What followed was a resonating and heartfelt harmonisation of awe and accolades. “That’s a lovely looking shank,” I flattered, and immediately sprang across the table to seize a taste of the crispy onion topping. “It’s a serious piece of meat,” Ajay said with a facetious grin. It was slow cooked six hours and finished with a mustard-carrot demi-glace, garlic mash and those fabulous crispy onions.

The Vix Bar & Grill's Lamb Shank

Desserts were surprisingly delicate and practically weightless. These captivating confections included a White Chocolate Mousse Cake, with a tangy berry filling and a deliciously tart Passion Fruit Mousse on a light tasting banana bread. It was visually stunning, with a dusting of bright red dried passion fruit powder. And finally, homemade vanilla ice cream, refreshing and cool on the palate.

Ajay is as serious about his cocktails as he is about his wines, and offered his twist on a Rum Old-fashioned. Inspired by an Old-Fashioned he experienced in NYC, Ajay mixes his with Gosling Dark Rum, maraschino cherries muddled with two demerara sugar cubes, a slice of orange, bitters and, here’s his twist, topped with tonic. By drinking through the straw, I discovered the lovely, crunchy, sugar bits hiding on the bottom of the glass. “I’ve just been introduced to my new favourite drink!” my husband exclaimed.

Talk turned to Chef Tiny. Ajay laughed and said, “He makes everyone else look tiny. He’s a great hands-on chef.” There was no mistaking Tiny as he approached the table, navigating somewhat of an obstacle course, as he frequently paused, ‘ducking’ to clear overhead objects. With a smile as massive as his hands, he reached and introduced himself. My hand literally disappeared.

“Ah, Chef Tiny!” we all exclaimed. “That’s what they call me for some reason,” he teased. Originally from Jamaica, this jovial, larger-than-life persona has been on Provo for 16 years. “Where have you been?” we all quizzed. “Ajay’s been hiding me!” he joked. We all laughed and countered, “I can’t imagine you can be hidden!”

The chef’s favourite dish? Tiny’s Ribs. “I think I’ve perfected the ribs and the Jerk Chicken Pasta,” said Tiny. All heads began to instinctively nod in perfect unison, relishing the flavours still clear on our palates. Ajay added that the Jerk spice is Tiny’s recipe, “We make the jerk from scratch – we do everything from scratch.”

The chef’s favourite ingredient? Without hesitation Tiny replied, “I like spice.” “We saw that!” we all quipped. “In a good way!” we added. Tiny continued, “I really do love spice. I know I’m working for an audience, I have to keep it palatable. But when I’m cooking for me – flaming hot!!!! He went on to explain that the jerk spice is made of scotch bonnet peppers, molasses and turmeric, citing turmeric as one of the main ingredients. “It’s really not that difficult”, he said with an unpretentious grin. “You nailed it!” we said.

Need I say more? If you haven’t been to The Vix recently, you don’t know The Vix!

Photography by Lisa Adara Photo

Care was taken to ensure correctness of information at press time. Information is subject to change without notice. Ad Vantage Ltd. accepts no responsibility for such alterations or for typographical errors or omissions. Entire contents of this page may not be reproduced in any manner without written permission of Ad Vantage Ltd. © March/April 2016 Where When How - Turks & Caicos Islands.

Seventy-Twoº West Providenciales, Turks and Caicos IslandsReviewed May / June 2016

Caicos Conch Chowder

By Mandy Rostance-Wolf

THE SUN WAS JUST ABOUT TO SET AS WE ARRIVED. On any other day, a stroll through The Palms would be done at a snail’s pace, pausing to take in the opulence and grandeur of the Bahamian coral stone architecture, evocative of centuries old Great Houses. The courtyard is beautifully landscaped with towering date palms, stately Poinciana trees and a profusion of colour from Bougainvillea blossoms. The promenade of fashionable and stylish boutiques along Palm place usually tempt and tease a little window-shopping, but we knew we had to pick up the pace if we were going to make Mother Nature’s nightly show. We stopped briefly to admire a night heron who had just landed on the edge of the infinity fountain to take pleasure in his version of Happy Hour.

We reached Seventy-Twoº West with a few moments to spare. The pool die-hards were still lounging in the spectacular serpentine infinity pool enjoying the last vestiges of another day in paradise, and the tropical scent of sunscreen still hung in the air. Time seemed to shift gears into slow motion, as we watched the sun descend and suddenly vanish behind the rolling peaks of Blue Hills. My husband turned to me and smiled and said, "This just never gets old."

Seventy-Twoº West is located just behind, or just in front of, Plunge Bar, depending on your perspective. Elegantly appointed tables are scattered just behind the dunes on a massive deck, together with inviting sofas and fire pits with dazzling blue fire glass rocks. There was a definitive chill in the air, but I’m referring to the vibe, not the ambient temperature.

It’s a "Caribbean-inspired menu full of favourites – chilled, grilled and filled with flavour – along with cooling drinks and tempting cocktails."

Executive Chef Lauren Callighen acted as our culinary compere this evening. I dubbed Chef Lauren a ‘culinary maven’ years ago. A moniker she has truly earned, she is a veritable connoisseur and expert in her discipline. Creatively and technically, she is a force to be reckoned with and has brought a feminine savvy to this male-dominated field. Case in point? The Palm’s ultimate fine dining experience, Parallel23. She accepts accolades modestly, repeatedly insistent on directing attention and compliments to her entire team, including Head Chef, Andrea Del Campo.

Coconut Fried Lobster

An après sunset Palms D’Or cocktail tasted like paradise in a glass. Cool and refreshing with Gold rum, Coconut rum, muddled mint, passionfruit, pineapple and champagne.

And to nibble on, a plate of finger lickin’ good ‘planks’ of grilled focaccia were served with EVOO and balsamic for dipping, dunking and devouring.

We kicked off this island-inspired feast with Caicos Conch Chowder. An award-winning sweet corn and saffron cream-based chowder, garnished with crispy bacon and fresh cut green onion tops. The tender kernels of sweet corn added great texture and burst in your mouth. Lauren acknowledged our wholehearted appreciation for this classic dish with a smile and said, "It’s a big bowl of love. It’s our famous conch chowder. We’ve been serving it the same way for years."

This next dish was addictive, an outright guilty pleasure and my new favourite way to enjoy lobster, Coconut Fried Lobster. Those are three of my favourite words. Served with a "pleasantly piquant" Bambarra Gold rum and mustard sauce that packed just the right heat, the batter had just a hint of coconut, but a huge amount of crunch that gave way to the most tender, succulent lobster chunks. Slices of mango, cucumber, tomato and a few greens added a light acidity and balance to this dish.

Baby Spinach Salad

A salad of Baby Spinach was given high marks for its fresh and delicious simplicity. Tender baby spinach leaves, slices of mango and red onion were tossed in a lively ginger and orange dressing, with a sprinkling of toasted sesame seeds. With the Sultan of Spinach Salads across the table, we looked to him for his decree. A definitive thumbs-up followed by, "It’s a hit … very exotic tasting."

A bright-tasting salad of Alaskan king crab meat dressed in a citrus and herb vinaigrette is one of Lauren’s favourites. Served on a bed of peppery arugula and grapefruit segments, this was a celebrated fusion of peppery and citrus elements.

Chef Lauren shares our passion for wine, and was eager to introduce the 72West Wine List and make mention of their in-house sommelier, Shawn LaRue, originally from Napa, California. It’s a thoughtfully conceived list that also features a great by-the-glass program. "Sean is always evolving it and we’re always looking for the next thing," Lauren added.

We continued to listen attentively and smiled knowingly as she began to sing the praises of La Crema Pinot Noir. This fabulous wine was no stranger to our palates. This evening’s 2013 vintage was from Monterey County. So incredibly easy to drink, I have heard it affably called a ‘hammock wine.’ Its bright, fruit-forward profile and silky, supple and creamy mouth-feel won over every palate and every plate.

Jerked Roasted Chicken Breast

The Entrée Menu includes Grilled to order Prime Meats and Fresh Fish with some great sides and sauces, like Truffle Baked Mac & Cheese, Caribbean Dirty Rice & Beans, Steamed Garden Vegetables, and Garlic Sautéed Mushrooms. Sauces include a House Style Steak Sauce, Garlic Drawn Butter, Red Wine Demi-Glace, and a fierce Chimichurri. There’s also a few pasta selections, a Jerk Spiced Chicken Breast and Curried Coconut Stewed Conch that, fortuitously, is always in season.

Opposites attract and the mild and mellow flavours of a home-grown fillet of Caicos Snapper got an incredible jolt of flavour, complements of a heady and powerful Chimichurri sauce. With Argentinian origins, this fabulously zesty and garlicky green sauce would be equally delicious with steak or chicken. Served on the side, this captivating condiment packed a palatable fire, igniting our taste buds with an inferno of flavour.

Caicos Snapper

‘Jerk’ is a mainstay island spice blend, and there are as many variations as there are foods to jerk. This evening’s Jerk Spiced Roasted Chicken Breast was absolutely flavourful with an appetising and mouth-watering heat. Keep it indigenous with Caribbean Dirty Rice & Beans, and an amazing charred sweet corn succotash. Jerk sauce is served on the side to add at your pleasure.

This past lobster season has seen a surge of sensational new lobster pasta creations on island menus, including 72West’s Caicos Lobster Pasta. Here, utterly tender morsels of Caicos lobster, roasted red peppers and baby spinach were tossed in a shockingly rich and flavourful garlic cream sauce. The extra-large tubes of penne pasta were the perfect conduit, trapping all the fabulous delicacies inside. Chef Lauren called it "pretty decadent," I called it, outrageous perfection.

Caicos Lobster Pasta

The Truffle Baked Mac & Cheese should also be classified as outrageous. A sophisticated, decadent and extravagant twist on a comfort classic.

Desserts are as refreshing to the eyes as they are to the palate. Treat your taste buds to Raspberry Charlotte – a rich and creamy raspberry Bavarian cream; Black Forest Mousse Cake – a chocolate-lover’s delight with a white and dark chocolate cherry mouse; a Blueberry Parfait with blueberry compote and lemon cheesecake; and a selection of flavour-charged sorbets and ice creams.

Blueberry Parfait

Set your GPS to Seventy-Twoº West. Perhaps still one of Provo’s secret gems. But not for long.

Photography by Lisa Adara Photo

Care was taken to ensure correctness of information at press time. Information is subject to change without notice. Ad Vantage Ltd. accepts no responsibility for such alterations or for typographical errors or omissions. Entire contents of this page may not be reproduced in any manner without written permission of Ad Vantage Ltd. © May/June 2016 Where When How - Turks & Caicos Islands.

Stelle at Wymara Grace Bay, Providenciales (Provo)Reviewed January / February 2014

Tropical garden terrace dining at Stelle at Wymara

By Mandy Rostance-Wolf

A cosmopolitan sophistication usually found in trendy, upscale restaurants in large urban cities blends seamlessly and naturally at this exotic yet relaxed Caribbean outpost. Here, polished style meets tropical elegance at Stelle at Wymara Resort.

The décor is decidedly stylish with furnishings of rich, dark mahogany, teak wood and espresso rattan. Inside dining is an atmosphere of sheer unmitigated elegance. The backdrop to the bar is a stunning wall that features a façade of rough-cut limestone next to a striking handcrafted wine cabinet that displays an impressive compilation of fine wines.

Enjoy Peppered Beef Carpaccio with Parmesan at Stelle

Outside, al fresco has never looked this chic. Dine on the garden terrace where comfortable and inviting sofa ‘clusters’ are perfect for cocktails, conversations or celebrations be it a group of friends or a romantic tête-à-tête surrounded by towering palm trees sheathed in hundreds of dazzling lights. You can even dine on a private, floating ‘island’ in the beautiful 7000 square foot infinity-edge pool, or right on the beach.* Hip and trendy vibes compliment this avant garde setting as you prepare to indulge all of your senses in this intimate and unforgettable gourmet dining experience. It’s what Stelle calls ‘Modern Mediterranean cuisine, showcasing the very best local ingredients, featuring fresh fish and seafood’ and I discovered, some unexpected culinary surprises courtesy of Tunisian-born Executive Chef Mahdi Eghnam.

As we listened to the chef recite his culinary CV that has encompassed some of the most exotic and fascinating locales in the world including Laos, Bermuda, the Maldives and many countries in the Middle East, our expectations were rife with anticipation for how incredibly inspired and creative this cuisine would be, prompting Chef Mahdi to acknowledge, “Every place you learn something new. Of course, there is infusion from where I come from.”

Chef Mahdi infuses his South Caicos Conch Salad with a twist of Tangerine

Dining on the cusp of a menu change, Chef Mahdi was excited to entertain our palates with some of his new menu creations and some Chef specialties while solicitously and cleverly planting the seeds of anticipation for a few culinary surprises that loomed on the not-too distant horizon.

A sampling of Stelle’s Signature Cocktails was the perfect precursor and accompaniment to plotting this evening’s culinary course. The wine list is thoughtfully categorised and will appeal to the most cultivated and the most casual of palates. Diehard partisans of Pinot Noir, we have become somewhat predictable, but we simply cannot help but applaud this food-friendly and palate-pleasing wine.

Stelle's Pan Seared Mediterranean Dorado Fish with Parsley Butter Risotto

As our plates evolved over the course of the evening, so too did the wine. First, a lush and well-balanced 2011 Belle Glos Meiomi Pinot Noir put forward rich berry and oak nuances with a lovely finish. Next, we took great visual pleasure in the spectacular deep crimson hues of a 2010 Flowers Pinot Noir. Good looks aside, this wine had plenty of substance too, with a profusion of berry, tea, herbs and flowers; a superbly graceful, yet intrepid wine.

The Peppered Beef Carpaccio was divine. The gossamer thin slices of beef simply dissolved on your tongue, the peppery arugula a perfect complement to the beef together with slices of marinated artichoke that added a great texture and delicious taste. A subtle truffle essence was the brilliance of this dish – delectably evident, but not excessive.

As the server carefully decanted the final drops of the Lobster Bisque into my favourite dining companion’s bowl and the enticing aromas began to pervade the air she unreservedly blurted out, “I want to lick the pot!” This bisque was marvelous with rich lobster, vanilla and sherry aromas that engulfed her senses and everyone else’s in her immediate vicinity. An abundance of lobster ‘salad’ surreptitiously lay beneath a crispy garlic foccacia crouton that was topped with delicate alfalfa sprouts.

Black Angus Beef Tenderloin with Oxtail Stuffer Ravioli and Baked Polenta

Chef Mahdi infuses a tangerine twist to his South Caicos Conch Salad with extremely tender morsels of conch together with red onion, bell pepper, coriander leaves and cumin; this ceviche had a palatable, peppery heat that “starts to sneak up on you”.

Eager to experience this multifaceted chef’s talent with pasta, I considered it an out-and-out culinary coup d'état to have tasted the Pappardelle All’Uovo before its forthcoming exodus from the menu. Meandering ribbons of perfectly al dente pappardelle pasta were gently smothered in a sauce of white wine and decadently rich and velvety mascarpone cheese together with absolutely melt-in-your-mouth rosemary braised beef. Not often at a loss for words – the profound and lingering flavours left me speechless then … and even now.

This evening’s Chef’s Special of Pan-Seared Mediterranean Dorado Filet was beyond special … it was extraordinary. This Mediterranean fish evoked memories of snapper, for its mild and delicate taste. The Parsley Butter Risotto was the foundation for this plate, raved over for its richness and the dominance of the fresh, clean parsley flavour, while a Hazelnut Herb Salad was the crowning glory to this magnificent mélange.

My husband was quite simply besotted with his Crispy Skinned Mediterranean Branzino Fillet. All the bones had been skillfully removed for a completely enjoyable and utterly carefree whole-fish experience. Moist and tender, every bite had huge flavour. In the company of orange braised fennel, calamari salad and a citrus fregola – this dish was outstanding.

Executive Chef Mahdi Eghnam - photo by MyParadisePhoto.com

Across the table, a half rack of Colorado Lamb put forward palpable and pleasurable mustard flavours together with an appealing and balancing mint pesto. Mint and lamb are without a doubt, a classic coupling and the complementary sides of Sicilian Crushed Potato and Crispy Artichokes were “marvelous”.

Swirls of natural jus and a colourful and refreshing puree of green peas painted the first layer of the culinary canvas for my Black Angus Beef Tenderloin. A delectable oxtail-stuffed ravioli hidden beneath a sprinkling of sprouts topped this perfectly grilled filet, while artichoke and delightful mini-rounds of baked polenta completed this tremendous dish.

Remember those unexpected culinary surprises I alluded to earlier? This traditional dish from Chef Mahdi’s roots, Tunisian Lamb Shoulder a la Gargoulette is fascinating in its preparation and presentation, and takes a total of forty-eight hours from its savoury start to its succulent finish. Prepared for two, the meat is first marinated for twenty-four hours, then placed in a terra cotta jar (gargoulette) and covered with a flour and water ‘dough’ seal that Chef Mahdi explained, “keeps all the aromatic heat and steam inside the jar to give more flavour and tenderness to the meat.” The jar is then placed in a very, very low temperature oven and cooked for twenty-four hours.

Dark and White Chocolate Mousse, Raspberry Tart, Vanilla Ice Cream and Chocolate Soil, decadent Dessert - Stelle at Wymara

Traditionally, the jar is buried in hot sand with wood or charcoal embers for 8 to 10 hours, and then the jar is ceremoniously broken by a sword-wielding chef. While the traditional presentation certainly would make for very exciting and dramatic culinary entertainment, for obvious reasons, just the dough will be sliced open … sans sword.

Dessert was whimsical and wonderful with ‘balls’ of Dark and White Chocolate Mousse, a fabulous and fragrant Raspberry Tart, Vanilla Ice Cream and Chocolate Soil. Yes, chocolate soil.

It was Friday night and as the vibes began to take on an upbeat twist and a new after-dinner crowd began to settle in for the hugely popular Club Stelle, we mused over our fabulous evening one last time, eager to return to revel again in the extraordinary cuisine and unparalleled style at Stelle.

*Pool and beach dining subject to additional set-up fees.

Care was taken to ensure correctness of information at press time. Information is subject to change without notice. Ad Vantage Ltd. accepts no responsibility for such alterations or for typographical errors or omissions. Entire contents of this page may not be reproduced in any manner without written permission of Ad Vantage Ltd. © January / February 2014 Where When How - Turks & Caicos Islands.